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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.